Escher's Forest: Möbius Hairband

Maths and knitting go together like chemistry and cooking — lots of end users don’t think about it and just like to follow the instructions, and you can get fantastic results that way, but if you want to go deeper and truly create something of your own, you have to understand the underlying scientific principles.

The möbius strip is a great example of the combination of knitting and maths. This headband is a 3D illustration of a 2D surface with only one side in 3D space: an infinite track that could turn your mind inside out if you think about it too hard — but also keeps your hair back and your ears warm! The leaf-patterned lace gives it a vernal, organic feel, and the scalloped edges with a picot bind-off are soft, feminine and ever-so-slightly reminiscent of another mathematical wonder: fractals. So whether it’s to motivate you to do your homework, to tame your hair in the spring breeze or to act as your life-line through a metaphysical maze of numbers, give Escher’s Forest a go and let your geek side out.

Instructions are both charted and written.

This pattern is free: it can be downloaded as a PDF. You can also view it on Ravelry.

Rachel Shawl

An elegant semi-circular shawl in variegated teal, knitted from the centre-neck edge outwards. A star-textured centre section fans out into fir-cone lace, finishing with a geometric eyelet-based lace edging ornamented with nupps. Designed for Rachel on the occasion of her wedding.

Instructions are given in both charted and written versions.

This pattern is available to buy for £5 online: you can download the PDF from Ravelry or direct from buy now using PayPal. It is also available as a hard copy exclusively from Sweet Clement, debuting on her stall at Knit Nation in London on 15-17 July 2011.

Arrows of Ilium Lace Bag

This lace bag was conceived while I was watching the film Troy. Whether or not you approve of the cavalier handling of the ancient epic, the film’s visuals are stunning: the gorgeous lapis-lazuli blues of the Trojans’ garments really struck a chord with me. So I designed this pouch: small and handy enough for everyday use, with a lace pattern evoking arrowheads and the contrasting colour blocks symbolising the two nations at war. It’s great for holding your knitting, a few necessary items or your copy of Homer. I named it Arrows of Ilium after the antique name for the ancient city.

This pattern is available to buy for £3 online: you can download the PDF from Ravelry or direct from here using PayPal. It's also available as a real-life copy exclusively from Sweet Clement at knitting shows.

Otranto Stole

The curves and angles of the lace patterns in this stole evoke opulent architectural forms, and the combination of black yarn and red beads is darkly romantic. So I have named it after the ultimate gothic ruin: the Castle of Otranto, the namesake of the very first gothic novel, published by Horace Walpole in 1764. But you need not confine yourself to my literary tastes: make it in grey, with nupps instead of beads, for the castle of The Mysteries of Udolpho or the Arthurian Camelot; make it in green for the woodland palaces of Lothlórien or Rivendell in The Lord of The Rings; or make it in pink with blue beads to gratify your inner Disney princess. Whatever your fairy-tale proclivities, this is the stole to make you feel like royalty.

This pattern is available to buy for £5 online: you can download the PDF from Ravelry or direct from here using PayPal. It's also available as a real-life copy exclusively from Sweet Clement at knitting shows. I made a nupp sample in her Olive colourway, and it's truly gorgeous. The nupp version shown here is a test-knit by Em, in Knit Picks laceweight.

Unicorn Rampant Intarsia Chart

Unicorn Rampant Intarsia Chart

Design by Anna Novitzky

I made some intarsia cushions for my sister for Christmas; one with a skull pattern by Domiknitrix and the other with a unicorn pattern that I designed myself. The unicorn chart can now be downloaded as a pdf from Ravelry .

Sam Hain

Trick ‘R Treat: Sam Hain
Design by Anna Novitzky

Sam Hain is the adorable, terrifying star of Hallowe’en-themed horror anthology Trick ‘R Treat. At first glance he appears to be a cute little trick or treater, with bag full of sweets and a pumpkin lollipop, but terror lurks beneath his sack mask and footy pyjamas. Dedicated to ensuring that the traditions of Hallowe’en are upheld, he stalks the streets doling out mayhem and mutilation to those who don’t respect the spookiest night of the year.

Now you can have your very own woollen guardian. He’ll make sure your night is all it should be, but don’t underestimate him, and don’t turn your back for too long – who knows what havoc he could wreak with a crochet hook.

This pattern is unofficial, and is in no way licensed or endorsed by Warner Bros. or Legendary Pictures.


Notes:
The pattern is fairly simple, with no advanced techniques, but I recommend reading it all the way through before starting. The head is worked first, then the body, arms and legs are worked in one piece to minimise sewing. Instructions for the feet are a little complicated, as exact stitch counts depend on where you have chosen to join the yarn, but they should make sense once you get there.

Yarn:
A: Wendy Pampas Mega Chunky (70% acrylic, 30% wool, 57m/100g): 2 skeins of 2224 Soft Brown
B: Lamb’s Pride Bulky (85% wool, 15% mohair, 114m/113g): 2 skeins of M-110 Orange You Glad

Gauge isn’t important for this project, but it must be tighter than is usually used for the yarn size, to prevent the stuffing showing through. Yarn B is worked held double.

Tools and notions:
6.5mm crochet hook
2x 15mm buttons
Stuffing or scrap yarn
Darning needle
Needle and thread
Short length of doweling
Scrap yarn in brown and black

Abbreviations:
Sc = single crochet (US); double crochet (UK)
Ss = slip stitch
Sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (US); double crochet 2 stitches together (UK)
Sc3tog = single crochet 3 stitches together (US); double crochet 3 stitches together (UK)
St = stitch
Ch = chain
FO = fasten off

For instructions on how to make a magic ring, see Crochet Me.

Instructions:

Head:
With yarn A:
Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6st)
2: 2 sc in each st (12 st)
3: *1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (18 st)
4: *2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (24 st)
5: *3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (30 st)
6: *4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (36 st)
7: *5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (42 st)
8: *6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (48 st)
9-12: sc in each st
13: *sc2tog, 6 sc, repeat from * around (42 st)
14: *sc2tog, 5 sc, repeat from * around (36 st)
15: *sc2tog, 4 sc, repeat from * around (30 st)
16: *sc2tog, 3 sc, repeat from * around (24 st)
17: *sc2tog, 2 sc, repeat from * around (18 st)
18: *sc2tog, 1 sc, repeat from * around (12 st)
19: In front loops only: *1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (18 st)
20: In both loops: *2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (24 st)
21: *sc, 3 ch, sc in same st (picot made), 2 ss, repeat from * around
FO.
Stuff head.

Body:
With yarn B:
Round 1: working in exposed back loops from round 19 of head, join yarn and 12 sc (12 st)
2: *1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (18 st)
3: *2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (24 st)
4: *3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (30 st)
5: *4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (36 st)
6: *5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (42 st)
7: 15 sc, skip 6 sc, 15 sc, skip 6sc (30 st active for body; 2 x 6 st resting to be picked up for arms)
8-13: sc in each st. Do not fasten off.
Stuff body.

Legs:
Note: adjust number of stitches worked either side of the skip in the first row, in order to ensure that the divide is in line with the centre of the body.
Round 1: Continuing from end of body, 7 sc, skip 15 st, 8 sc (15 st active for first leg; 15 st resting for second leg)
2-8: sc in each st
9: sc in each st except the 2 st at the front of the leg; in these, 2 sc (17 st)
10: sc in each st except the 4 st at the front of the leg; in these, 2 sc (21 st)
11: In back loops only: sc in each st. Cut yarn.
With yarn A:
12: sc to 7 centre front stitches, sc2tog, sc3tog, sc2tog, sc to 4 centre back stitches, sc2tog three times (15 st)
13: sc to 4 centre front stitches, sc2tog twice, sc to 3 centre back stitches, sc3tog (11 st)
Stuff leg
14: 1 sc, then, working in 2 stitches at a time, one from left side of foot and one from right, 5 ss to close up foot
FO.

Arms (make 2):
With yarn B:
Join yarn at armhole.
Round 1: 6 sc in armhole,
2 sc in body below armhole (8 st)
2-7: sc in each st.
Cut yarn.
With yarn A:
8-9: sc in each st
10: sc2tog 4 times (4 st)
Stuff arm.
11: sc2tog twice (2 st)
12: sc2tog once (1 st)
FO.

Sack:
With yarn A:
Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6st)
2: 2 sc in each st (12 st)
3: *1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (18 st)
4: *2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (24 st)
5: *3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (30 st)
6: *4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (36 st)
7-8: sc in each st
9: *sc2tog, 7 sc, repeat from * around (32 st)
10: *sc2tog, 6 sc, repeat from * around (28 st)
11: *sc2tog, 5 sc, repeat from * around (24 st)
12: *sc2tog, 4 sc, repeat from * around (20 st)
13: *sc2tog, 3 sc, repeat from * around (16 st)
14: *sc2tog, 2 sc, repeat from * around (12 st)
15: *sc2tog, 1 sc, repeat from * around (8 st)
Stuff sack
16: sc2tog around (4 st)
17: 2 sc in each st (8 st)
18: *sc, 3 ch, sc in same st (picot made), 1 ss, repeat from * around
FO.

Lollipop:
With yarn B:
Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6st)
2: 2 sc in each st, ch 1, turn work (12 st)
3: *1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around, ch 1, turn work (18 st)
4: *1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (27 st)
FO.

Finishing:
Weave in all ends.
Tie a short length of yarn A around the neck of the sack, drawing it closed and trimming tails of knot. Sew sack to Sam’s hand.
With black yarn, embroider a pumpkin face on one side of the lollipop, as shown. Spear it on the length of dowelling, then attach to Sam’s other hand, either by sewing or by forcing it through the fabric.
Tie a short length of yarn A around Sam’s neck; trim tails of knot.
Sew on buttons for eyes, and use scrap dark brown yarn for the mouth and nose seams, as shown.

A PDF of this pattern is available on Ravelry.

Insectosaurus

Monsters vs. Aliens: Insectosaurus
Design by Anna Novitzky

Insectosaurus is inspired by a character from the DreamWorks Animation film Monsters vs. Aliens (2009). Originally a one-inch grub, he was transformed by radiation into a 350-foot monster who attacked Tokyo. He was captured in 1969, and remained in the monsters unit until the events of the film. The crocheted Insectosaurus is smaller in stature, but will rampage into your heart and take up residence.

This pattern is unofficial, and is in no way licensed or endorsed by DreamWorks or Paramount.

Notes:
The pattern is long but simple, and requires no advanced techniques. I recommend reading it all the way through before starting.

Yarn:
Dalegarn Falk DK (100% wool, 106m/50g): 1 skein each of 3418 Burnt Orange (A); 5582 Midnight (B); 2313 Lemon (C); and 0017 Polar White (D).

Gauge isn’t important for this project, but it must be tighter than is usually used for the yarn size, to prevent the stuffing showing through.

Tools and notions:
3.75mm crochet hook
7mm safety eyes
Stuffing or scrap yarn
Darning needle

Abbreviations:
Sc = single crochet (US); double crochet (UK)
Ss = slip stitch
Sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (US); double crochet 2 stitches together (UK)
Sc3tog = single crochet 3 stitches together (US); double crochet 3 stitches together (UK)
St = stitch
Hdc = half double crochet (US); half treble crochet (UK)
Dc = double crochet (US); treble crochet (UK)
Ch = chain
FO = fasten off

For instructions on how to make a magic ring, see Crochet Me.

Instructions:
Work in continuous rounds. Make the eyes first; insert safety eyes and affix to the head roughly between rounds 6 and 7 on the front of the head (the side with 4 rows of dc) before stuffing the head and body. Make sure the position is correct before placing the washer. Stuff the body firmly after row 48 or when the hole is still large enough to fit your hand inside.

Eyes (make 2):
With yarn C:
Round 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8 st)
Pull tight, leaving a gap large enough for the stem of the safety eye. Cut off yarn C.
With yarn D:
2: 2 sc in each st (16 st)
3: *(1 sc, 2 sc in next sc) twice, (1 ss, 2 ss in next ss) twice, repeat from * (24 st)
Cut off yarn D.
With yarn A:
4: *(1 sc, 2 sc in next sc) three times, (1 ss, 2ss in next ss) three times, repeat from * (36 st). Ss to join, FO.

Head and body (make 1):
With yarn A:
Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6st)
2: 2 sc in each st (12 st)
3: *1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (18 st)
4: *2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (24 st)
5: *3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (30 st)
6: *4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (36 st)
7: *5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (42 st)
8: 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 6 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, *6 dc, 2 dc in next dc, repeat from * twice, 6 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc (48 st)
9: 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 7 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, *7 dc, 2 dc in next dc, repeat from * twice, 7 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc (54 st)
10: 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 8 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, *8 dc, 2 dc in next dc, repeat from * twice, 8 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc (60 st)
11: 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 9 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, *9 dc, 2 dc in next dc, repeat from * twice, 9 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc (66 st)
12-13: sc in each st
14: In front loops only: *5 sc, 2 sc next sc, repeat from * around (77 st)
15: In both loops: *6 sc, 2 sc next sc, repeat from * around (88 st)
16: *7 sc, 2 sc next sc, repeat from * around (99 st)
17: *8 sc, 2 sc next sc, repeat from * around (110 st)
18-19: sc in each st
20-23: 20 dc, 20 hdc, 50 sc, 20 hdc
24-26: sc in each st
27: *53 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * once (108 st)
28: *34 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (105 st)
29: *33 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (102 st)
30: *32 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (99 st)
31-43: repeat in the form of the previous row, decreasing 3 st each row until 60 st remain.
44: *8 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (54 st)
45: *7 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (48 st)
46: *6 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (42 st)
47: *5 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (36 st)
48: In back loops only: *4 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (30 st)
49: In both loops: *1 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (20 st)
50: sc2tog around, repeating until the hole is closed. FO.

Legs (make 2):
With yarn A:
Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6 st)
2: 2 sc in each st (12 st)
3: *1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (18 st)
4: *2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (24 st)
5: In back loops only: *6 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (21 st)
6-11: sc in each st
Row 12: turn the work, 1 ch, sc 20, leaving remaining st unworked
13: turn, 1 ch, skip 1 sc, sc in each sc to end (19 st)
14-17: repeat the previous row until 15 st remain
18: turn, 1 ch, sc in each sc
19: turn, 1 ch, *3 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * twice (12 st)
20: turn, 1 ch, *2 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * twice (9 st)
21: turn, 1 ch, *1 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * twice (6 st)
22: turn, 1 ch, sc2tog three times (3 st)
23: turn, 1 ch, sc3tog. FO.

Arms (make 4):
With yarn B:
Round 1: 8 ch, ss to join into a ring (8 st)
2-10: sc in each st
11: 4 sc, then join in round, leaving last 4 st unworked
12-13: sc in each st. Ss to close. FO.
Repeat rounds 11-13 for the remaining 4 st.

Tummy (make 1):
With yarn C:
Round 1: 6 sc into magic ring (6 st)
2: 2 sc in each st (12 st)
3: 2 sc in each st (24 st)
4: sc in each st
5: *2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (32 st)
6: *3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (40 st)
7: *7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (45 st)
8: *8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (50 st)
9: *9 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (55 st)
10: *10 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (60 st)
11: *5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (70 st)
12: *6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (80 st)
13-14: sc in each st. FO.

Tail (make 1):
With yarn A:
Round 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4 st)
2: *1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * (6 st)
3: *2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * (8 st)
4-5: sc in each st
6: *3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * (10 st)
7-8: sc in each st
9: *4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * (12 st)
10-11: sc in each st
12: *5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * (14 st)
13-14: sc in each st
15: *6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * (16 st)
16-17: sc in each st
18: *7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * (18 st)
19-20: sc in each st
21: *8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * (20 st)
10-11: sc in each st
Ss to join, FO.

Antennae (make 2):
With yarn B:
Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6 st)
2: *1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (9 st)
3-4: sc in each st
5: *1 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (6 st)
6-8: 2 hdc, 1 sc, 2 ss, 1 sc
9-10: sc in each st
SS to join, FO.

Finishing:
Affix safety eyes and stuff body as mentioned above. Sew tummy to centre front of body, sew arms on both side. Stuff legs and sew below arms, using pictures as a placement guide; stuff tail and sew to back, in line with tops of legs. Sew down eye circles at base and sides, leaving a ridge unsewn at top. Sew antennae behind eyes. Embroider nose using yarn B. Work spine on assembled body, as follows:

Spine:
With yarn B:
Join yarn at tip of tail. Working along the top of the tail and up the centre of the back, *1 sc, 2 ch, repeat from * to just below the antennae. FO.

Weave in all ends.

A PDF of this pattern is available on Ravelry.