Sam Hain

Trick ‘R Treat: Sam Hain
Design by Anna Novitzky

Sam Hain is the adorable, terrifying star of Hallowe’en-themed horror anthology Trick ‘R Treat. At first glance he appears to be a cute little trick or treater, with bag full of sweets and a pumpkin lollipop, but terror lurks beneath his sack mask and footy pyjamas. Dedicated to ensuring that the traditions of Hallowe’en are upheld, he stalks the streets doling out mayhem and mutilation to those who don’t respect the spookiest night of the year.

Now you can have your very own woollen guardian. He’ll make sure your night is all it should be, but don’t underestimate him, and don’t turn your back for too long – who knows what havoc he could wreak with a crochet hook.

This pattern is unofficial, and is in no way licensed or endorsed by Warner Bros. or Legendary Pictures.


Notes:
The pattern is fairly simple, with no advanced techniques, but I recommend reading it all the way through before starting. The head is worked first, then the body, arms and legs are worked in one piece to minimise sewing. Instructions for the feet are a little complicated, as exact stitch counts depend on where you have chosen to join the yarn, but they should make sense once you get there.

Yarn:
A: Wendy Pampas Mega Chunky (70% acrylic, 30% wool, 57m/100g): 2 skeins of 2224 Soft Brown
B: Lamb’s Pride Bulky (85% wool, 15% mohair, 114m/113g): 2 skeins of M-110 Orange You Glad

Gauge isn’t important for this project, but it must be tighter than is usually used for the yarn size, to prevent the stuffing showing through. Yarn B is worked held double.

Tools and notions:
6.5mm crochet hook
2x 15mm buttons
Stuffing or scrap yarn
Darning needle
Needle and thread
Short length of doweling
Scrap yarn in brown and black

Abbreviations:
Sc = single crochet (US); double crochet (UK)
Ss = slip stitch
Sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (US); double crochet 2 stitches together (UK)
Sc3tog = single crochet 3 stitches together (US); double crochet 3 stitches together (UK)
St = stitch
Ch = chain
FO = fasten off

For instructions on how to make a magic ring, see Crochet Me.

Instructions:

Head:
With yarn A:
Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6st)
2: 2 sc in each st (12 st)
3: *1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (18 st)
4: *2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (24 st)
5: *3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (30 st)
6: *4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (36 st)
7: *5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (42 st)
8: *6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (48 st)
9-12: sc in each st
13: *sc2tog, 6 sc, repeat from * around (42 st)
14: *sc2tog, 5 sc, repeat from * around (36 st)
15: *sc2tog, 4 sc, repeat from * around (30 st)
16: *sc2tog, 3 sc, repeat from * around (24 st)
17: *sc2tog, 2 sc, repeat from * around (18 st)
18: *sc2tog, 1 sc, repeat from * around (12 st)
19: In front loops only: *1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (18 st)
20: In both loops: *2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (24 st)
21: *sc, 3 ch, sc in same st (picot made), 2 ss, repeat from * around
FO.
Stuff head.

Body:
With yarn B:
Round 1: working in exposed back loops from round 19 of head, join yarn and 12 sc (12 st)
2: *1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (18 st)
3: *2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (24 st)
4: *3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (30 st)
5: *4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (36 st)
6: *5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (42 st)
7: 15 sc, skip 6 sc, 15 sc, skip 6sc (30 st active for body; 2 x 6 st resting to be picked up for arms)
8-13: sc in each st. Do not fasten off.
Stuff body.

Legs:
Note: adjust number of stitches worked either side of the skip in the first row, in order to ensure that the divide is in line with the centre of the body.
Round 1: Continuing from end of body, 7 sc, skip 15 st, 8 sc (15 st active for first leg; 15 st resting for second leg)
2-8: sc in each st
9: sc in each st except the 2 st at the front of the leg; in these, 2 sc (17 st)
10: sc in each st except the 4 st at the front of the leg; in these, 2 sc (21 st)
11: In back loops only: sc in each st. Cut yarn.
With yarn A:
12: sc to 7 centre front stitches, sc2tog, sc3tog, sc2tog, sc to 4 centre back stitches, sc2tog three times (15 st)
13: sc to 4 centre front stitches, sc2tog twice, sc to 3 centre back stitches, sc3tog (11 st)
Stuff leg
14: 1 sc, then, working in 2 stitches at a time, one from left side of foot and one from right, 5 ss to close up foot
FO.

Arms (make 2):
With yarn B:
Join yarn at armhole.
Round 1: 6 sc in armhole,
2 sc in body below armhole (8 st)
2-7: sc in each st.
Cut yarn.
With yarn A:
8-9: sc in each st
10: sc2tog 4 times (4 st)
Stuff arm.
11: sc2tog twice (2 st)
12: sc2tog once (1 st)
FO.

Sack:
With yarn A:
Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6st)
2: 2 sc in each st (12 st)
3: *1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (18 st)
4: *2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (24 st)
5: *3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (30 st)
6: *4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (36 st)
7-8: sc in each st
9: *sc2tog, 7 sc, repeat from * around (32 st)
10: *sc2tog, 6 sc, repeat from * around (28 st)
11: *sc2tog, 5 sc, repeat from * around (24 st)
12: *sc2tog, 4 sc, repeat from * around (20 st)
13: *sc2tog, 3 sc, repeat from * around (16 st)
14: *sc2tog, 2 sc, repeat from * around (12 st)
15: *sc2tog, 1 sc, repeat from * around (8 st)
Stuff sack
16: sc2tog around (4 st)
17: 2 sc in each st (8 st)
18: *sc, 3 ch, sc in same st (picot made), 1 ss, repeat from * around
FO.

Lollipop:
With yarn B:
Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6st)
2: 2 sc in each st, ch 1, turn work (12 st)
3: *1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around, ch 1, turn work (18 st)
4: *1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (27 st)
FO.

Finishing:
Weave in all ends.
Tie a short length of yarn A around the neck of the sack, drawing it closed and trimming tails of knot. Sew sack to Sam’s hand.
With black yarn, embroider a pumpkin face on one side of the lollipop, as shown. Spear it on the length of dowelling, then attach to Sam’s other hand, either by sewing or by forcing it through the fabric.
Tie a short length of yarn A around Sam’s neck; trim tails of knot.
Sew on buttons for eyes, and use scrap dark brown yarn for the mouth and nose seams, as shown.

A PDF of this pattern is available on Ravelry.

Insectosaurus

Monsters vs. Aliens: Insectosaurus
Design by Anna Novitzky

Insectosaurus is inspired by a character from the DreamWorks Animation film Monsters vs. Aliens (2009). Originally a one-inch grub, he was transformed by radiation into a 350-foot monster who attacked Tokyo. He was captured in 1969, and remained in the monsters unit until the events of the film. The crocheted Insectosaurus is smaller in stature, but will rampage into your heart and take up residence.

This pattern is unofficial, and is in no way licensed or endorsed by DreamWorks or Paramount.

Notes:
The pattern is long but simple, and requires no advanced techniques. I recommend reading it all the way through before starting.

Yarn:
Dalegarn Falk DK (100% wool, 106m/50g): 1 skein each of 3418 Burnt Orange (A); 5582 Midnight (B); 2313 Lemon (C); and 0017 Polar White (D).

Gauge isn’t important for this project, but it must be tighter than is usually used for the yarn size, to prevent the stuffing showing through.

Tools and notions:
3.75mm crochet hook
7mm safety eyes
Stuffing or scrap yarn
Darning needle

Abbreviations:
Sc = single crochet (US); double crochet (UK)
Ss = slip stitch
Sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (US); double crochet 2 stitches together (UK)
Sc3tog = single crochet 3 stitches together (US); double crochet 3 stitches together (UK)
St = stitch
Hdc = half double crochet (US); half treble crochet (UK)
Dc = double crochet (US); treble crochet (UK)
Ch = chain
FO = fasten off

For instructions on how to make a magic ring, see Crochet Me.

Instructions:
Work in continuous rounds. Make the eyes first; insert safety eyes and affix to the head roughly between rounds 6 and 7 on the front of the head (the side with 4 rows of dc) before stuffing the head and body. Make sure the position is correct before placing the washer. Stuff the body firmly after row 48 or when the hole is still large enough to fit your hand inside.

Eyes (make 2):
With yarn C:
Round 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8 st)
Pull tight, leaving a gap large enough for the stem of the safety eye. Cut off yarn C.
With yarn D:
2: 2 sc in each st (16 st)
3: *(1 sc, 2 sc in next sc) twice, (1 ss, 2 ss in next ss) twice, repeat from * (24 st)
Cut off yarn D.
With yarn A:
4: *(1 sc, 2 sc in next sc) three times, (1 ss, 2ss in next ss) three times, repeat from * (36 st). Ss to join, FO.

Head and body (make 1):
With yarn A:
Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6st)
2: 2 sc in each st (12 st)
3: *1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (18 st)
4: *2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (24 st)
5: *3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (30 st)
6: *4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (36 st)
7: *5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (42 st)
8: 6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 6 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, *6 dc, 2 dc in next dc, repeat from * twice, 6 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc (48 st)
9: 7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 7 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, *7 dc, 2 dc in next dc, repeat from * twice, 7 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc (54 st)
10: 8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 8 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, *8 dc, 2 dc in next dc, repeat from * twice, 8 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc (60 st)
11: 9 sc, 2 sc in next sc, 9 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, *9 dc, 2 dc in next dc, repeat from * twice, 9 hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc (66 st)
12-13: sc in each st
14: In front loops only: *5 sc, 2 sc next sc, repeat from * around (77 st)
15: In both loops: *6 sc, 2 sc next sc, repeat from * around (88 st)
16: *7 sc, 2 sc next sc, repeat from * around (99 st)
17: *8 sc, 2 sc next sc, repeat from * around (110 st)
18-19: sc in each st
20-23: 20 dc, 20 hdc, 50 sc, 20 hdc
24-26: sc in each st
27: *53 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * once (108 st)
28: *34 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (105 st)
29: *33 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (102 st)
30: *32 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (99 st)
31-43: repeat in the form of the previous row, decreasing 3 st each row until 60 st remain.
44: *8 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (54 st)
45: *7 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (48 st)
46: *6 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (42 st)
47: *5 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (36 st)
48: In back loops only: *4 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (30 st)
49: In both loops: *1 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (20 st)
50: sc2tog around, repeating until the hole is closed. FO.

Legs (make 2):
With yarn A:
Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6 st)
2: 2 sc in each st (12 st)
3: *1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (18 st)
4: *2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (24 st)
5: In back loops only: *6 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (21 st)
6-11: sc in each st
Row 12: turn the work, 1 ch, sc 20, leaving remaining st unworked
13: turn, 1 ch, skip 1 sc, sc in each sc to end (19 st)
14-17: repeat the previous row until 15 st remain
18: turn, 1 ch, sc in each sc
19: turn, 1 ch, *3 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * twice (12 st)
20: turn, 1 ch, *2 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * twice (9 st)
21: turn, 1 ch, *1 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * twice (6 st)
22: turn, 1 ch, sc2tog three times (3 st)
23: turn, 1 ch, sc3tog. FO.

Arms (make 4):
With yarn B:
Round 1: 8 ch, ss to join into a ring (8 st)
2-10: sc in each st
11: 4 sc, then join in round, leaving last 4 st unworked
12-13: sc in each st. Ss to close. FO.
Repeat rounds 11-13 for the remaining 4 st.

Tummy (make 1):
With yarn C:
Round 1: 6 sc into magic ring (6 st)
2: 2 sc in each st (12 st)
3: 2 sc in each st (24 st)
4: sc in each st
5: *2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (32 st)
6: *3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (40 st)
7: *7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (45 st)
8: *8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (50 st)
9: *9 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (55 st)
10: *10 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (60 st)
11: *5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (70 st)
12: *6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (80 st)
13-14: sc in each st. FO.

Tail (make 1):
With yarn A:
Round 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4 st)
2: *1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * (6 st)
3: *2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * (8 st)
4-5: sc in each st
6: *3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * (10 st)
7-8: sc in each st
9: *4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * (12 st)
10-11: sc in each st
12: *5 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * (14 st)
13-14: sc in each st
15: *6 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * (16 st)
16-17: sc in each st
18: *7 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * (18 st)
19-20: sc in each st
21: *8 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * (20 st)
10-11: sc in each st
Ss to join, FO.

Antennae (make 2):
With yarn B:
Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6 st)
2: *1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (9 st)
3-4: sc in each st
5: *1 sc, sc2tog, repeat from * around (6 st)
6-8: 2 hdc, 1 sc, 2 ss, 1 sc
9-10: sc in each st
SS to join, FO.

Finishing:
Affix safety eyes and stuff body as mentioned above. Sew tummy to centre front of body, sew arms on both side. Stuff legs and sew below arms, using pictures as a placement guide; stuff tail and sew to back, in line with tops of legs. Sew down eye circles at base and sides, leaving a ridge unsewn at top. Sew antennae behind eyes. Embroider nose using yarn B. Work spine on assembled body, as follows:

Spine:
With yarn B:
Join yarn at tip of tail. Working along the top of the tail and up the centre of the back, *1 sc, 2 ch, repeat from * to just below the antennae. FO.

Weave in all ends.

A PDF of this pattern is available on Ravelry.

Dust Bunnies

My Neighbour Totoro: Amigurumi Dust Bunnies

Design by Anna Novitzky

Dust bunnies, also known as soot sprites or susuwatari, are characters from the Studio Ghibli films My Neighbour Totoro and Spirited Away. They’re shy spirits made of soot, who inhabit abandoned buildings and are scared of humans. Now you can make your very own dust bunnies, to colonise the neglected corners of your home or to complete your totoro collection.

Notes:
Dust bunnies are scruffy creatures, so I’d suggest using yarn that’s fuzzy rather than fluffy. Mohair or mohair-look synthetics are good. I find that when I crochet with fuzzy wool, the fuzz tends to end up on the wrong side; this is why the project is turned inside out after round 9. If your fuzz ends up on the right side, don’t bother with this step.

Yarn:
A: white DK-weight; I used Elle Pure Gold DK
B: Black sport weight or 4-ply fuzzy; I used Hayfield Exquisite Shimmer
C: Black sport weight or 4-ply plain; I used Wendy Emu Superwash DK
You only need a small amount of each yarn; you could make a tribe of dust bunnies with one ball of each.

Gauge isn’t important for this project, but it must be tighter than is usually used for the yarn size, to prevent the stuffing showing through.

Tools and notions:
3.75mm crochet hook
7mm safety eyes
Stuffing or scrap yarn
Darning needle

Abbreviations:
Sc = single crochet (US); double crochet (UK)
Ss = slip stitch
Sc2tog = single crochet 2 stitches together (US); double crochet 2 stitches together (UK)
St = stitch

For instructions on how to make a magic ring, see Crochet Me.

Instructions:
Work in continuous rounds

To make the eye discs (yarn A):
8 sc into magic ring
Ss to close
Fasten off and cut yarn
Draw ring closed, leaving a hole big enough to fit the stem of a safety eye.

To make the body (holding yarns B and C together):
Round 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6 st)
2: 2 sc in each sc (12 st)
3: *1 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (18 st)
4: *2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (24 st)
5: *3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, repeat from * around (30 st)
6-7: Sc around for 2 rows (30st)
8: *sc2tog, 3 sc, repeat from * around (24 st)
9: *sc2tog, 2 sc, repeat from * around (18 st)
Turn shape inside out, so that the fuzz sticks outwards. Insert safety eyes through the eye discs, then fasten them into the dust bunny around rounds 6-7. Fit the eye washers. Using the darning needle, pull the yarn ends from the eye discs and the cast-on magic ring to the inside of the dust bunny so that they can’t be seen. Stuff the body firmly with stuffing or scrap yarn.
Rnd 10: *sc2tog, 1 sc, repeat from * around (12st)
11: sc2tog around (6st)
If desired, add more stuffing.
Rnd 12: sc2tog around to last st
Fasten off.

You can either weave the yarn end into the dust bunny with the darning needle, or leave it long so that you can hang the dust bunny from things.

The dust bunnies are pictured with some amigurumi totoros, from a pattern by Heavens Hellcat.

A PDF of this pattern is available from Ravelry.